Baby Elephants and Other Things

Kottowatta wasn’t quite the boutique glamping experience we expected. Less a bespoke individualised wigwam, and more a council tent Coronation Street style. Yet comfortable enough, with a large mattress on a platform enclosed inside a bug-proof mosquito net. A zip fabric door to our own hard-walled bathroom too. Although the open panel in the roof worried me slightly, and the gap under the front door. … Continue reading Baby Elephants and Other Things

High Tea at Amangalla

As the waiter brought over the three tiered silver platter of goodies, Kate’s eyes bulged. A trio of pastries on the top tray: savoury leek, strawberry cream, and chocolate mousse. On the tray below slices of cake – coconut and pineapple, ginger, chocolate éclair, and Millionaire’s shortbread. On the bottom tray, sandwiches: cucumber and cheese, egg paste, tomato and basil pesto, and salmon and cream … Continue reading High Tea at Amangalla

On the Rooftop and Over the Wall

Somehow the tuk-tuk driver squeezed all our considerable luggage into his tiny vehicle. My big black monster jammed onto the shelf at the back and Kate’s slimmer red number on the right-hand end of the seat. Three feet remained for us, as we wedged in as tight as buns in a baking tin. Tuk-tuks are incredible machines. Motorbikes with a passenger seat and canopy strapped … Continue reading On the Rooftop and Over the Wall

The Stray Dogs of Sri Lanka

Venice had its Doge, and Galle has its dogs. They wander from street to street and sleep under cars. Black ones, brown ones, and black/white spotted too. Not that we haven’t seen dogs elsewhere. Yet never as uniformly nor as ubiquitously as here. They patrol in ones and twos like the brown suited policemen, keeping an eye on the tourists and, were they able to … Continue reading The Stray Dogs of Sri Lanka

The Birthplace of Martin Wickramasinghe

Visiting the houses of famous writers is always a fascinating experience, and our trip to the birthplace of Martin Wickramasinghe was no exception. The house survives by a quirk of good fortune. The British authorities demolished all similar houses in the neighbourhood (of Koggala) to make way for an airbase. The wife of an officer however took a fancy to Martin Wickramasinghe’s house and as … Continue reading The Birthplace of Martin Wickramasinghe